There are three key ways to protect your skin from the sun while surfing or even learning to surf. The first way is to surf in the early morning or late afternoon. The second way is to cover your skin up with lycra clothing. The third way is to reapply sunscreen to exposed areas every 15 minutes….That’s it. Enjoy your day in the sun everyone!
There’s a well know saying in the surfing world, “Only a Surfer Know’s the Feeling”. I do know how it feels to get back into the surf after a hiatus of a week or two. It’s heavenly…..the ocean is so pure in her heart and actions. She will do what she will do and some of us mere humans get to know her and even be friends with her…..the ocean is always a place I can go to seek refuge from the manusha of life on the land. Paying bills, organizing, scheduling, even cleaning all are not possible in the ocean, especially while surfing. It’s a kind of meditative place where one can must and only focus on the moment. Surfing also brings a feeling of peace, health, happiness and especially freedom.
Every surfer girl should have a set of New Year’s Resolutions to motivate one’s self to improve in life….Here are mine…..
1. Drink a lot more water
2. Eat a lot more live green food
3. Apply sunscreen more often, especially when in the water
4 Practice yoga a lot more
5, Be as kind as I can to everyone all the time
6. Free surf a lot more
7. Call my dad at least once a week
Paddling out today on my way to work, I thought, wow who would have thunk 40 plus years later I’d still be living the dream on the North Shore of Oahu? I tried to remember the first time I swam in her beautiful waters. I remember the first time I looked under the water at Waimea Bay with a mask, I freaked out and ran out of the water, blown away because it was so vast under the sea. I must have been 5 or 6 years old at the time and never would have dreamed of paddle out to the point to challenge myself in the waves. I remember Steve Albert, who still runs Rainbow school taking us students on field trips to bodysurf the shore break at Waimea and to swim through the secret tunnels of Sharks Cove. I remember riding The Bus from Kahaluu to Waialua to ride horses as a teenager and staring at the huge waves of Waimea memorized if only for a few seconds as we rode around the Bay in pre-traffic North Shore…..I remember my first time bottom turning at Pipeline….wow that was a cool day! So now so many, many years later […]
Mele Kalikimaka me ka Hauʻoli Makahiki Hou, Merry Christmas and Happy New Year from the North Shore Surf Girls!
The Ultimate Cheat Sheet On North Shore Beaches, or what beaches are best for having fun surfing in the sun.
In the Winter months the North Shore surf can be large and dangerous, so it’s critical if your not a surfing expert to have a North Shore Surf Girl instructor show you the ropes if you want to learn to surf. Other then learning to surf with a certified surfing instructor, it’s best not to get in the water on the North Shore when the surf is big, if you must go to a life guarded beach on the North Shore and talk to the lifeguard BEFORE you attempt to go in the water. In the Summer most of the beaches are very safe as the water is rather calm, with the exception of a few exposed reefs…Waimea Bay is a favorite of both locals and visitors, it has lifeguards and a comfort station.
1. Learn to surf and surf everyday you are here.
2. Watch the sunset every evening.
3. Visit Waimea Falls Park.
4. Drive out to Kaena Point.
5. Take a picture with a sea turtle, but don’t touch it.
6. Visit the Pool Bar at Turtle Bay Resort and have a maitai while watching the Sun set.
7. Eat dinner at Haleiwa Joe’s and Lui Benuos’s
8. Eat breakfast at Cafe Haleiwa, (avoid Sunday mornings – large local crowd)
9. Visit Pupukea Heau.
10. Pay very close attention to the warning signs posted by the lifeguards.
Billabong Pipe Masters Final Results
1 – Julian Wilson (AUS) 19.63
2 – Gabriel Medina (BRA) 19.20
Billabong Pipe Masters Semi final Results (1st to Final, 2nd = 3rd)
Semifinal 1: Gabriel Medina (BRA) 13.60 def. Josh Kerr (AUS) 9.43
Semifinal 2: Julian Wilson (AUS) 13.16 def.Adrian Buchan (AUS) 3.17
Billabong Pipe Masters Quarterfinal Results (1st to SF, 2nd = 5th)
Quarterfinal 1: Gabriel Medina (BRA) 4.30 def. Filipe Toledo (BRA) 3.27
Quarterfinal 2: Josh Kerr (AUS) 6.00 def. John John Florence (HAW) 4.04
Quarterfinal 3: Adrian Buchan (AUS) 12.17 def. Alejo Muniz (BRA) 3.77
Quarterfinal 4: Julian Wilson (AUS) 17.83 def. Kai Otton (AUS) 2.77
Billabong Pipe Masters Round 5 Results (1st to QF, 2nd = 9th)
Heat 1: Filipe Toledo (BRA)14.66 def. Owen Wright (AUS) 3.84
Heat 2: Josh Kerr (AUS) 14.00 def. Michel Bourez (PYF) 10.84
Heat 3: Alejo Muniz (BRA) 6.53 def. Mick Fanning (AUS) 2.84
Heat 4: Julian Wilson (AUS) 17.46 def. Sebastien Zietz (HAW) 10.34
Billabong Pipe Masters Round 4 Results (1st to QF, 2nd & 3rd to R5)
Heat 1: John John Florence (HAW) 6.74, Michel Bourez (PYF) 6.40, Owen Wright (AUS) 5.93
Heat 2: Gabriel Medina (BRA) 15.67, Filipe Toledo (BRA) 15.23, Josh Kerr (AUS) 4.97
Heat 3: Adrian Buchan (AUS) 6.86, Mick Fanning (AUS) 6.47, Julian Wilson (AUS) 6.43
Heat 4: Kai Otton […]
Van’s Triple Crown of Surfing on a Lay Day Today. None the less, the finals are only a day and a half of competition time away. Who will win, who will lose? Tune in to find out.
Pipe hype is what people who don’t surf Pipeline feel when the sit on the beach watching the world’s most photographed wave.