Archive for August, 2009

North Shore Surfer Jeff Johnson is Surfing in Heaven

Friday, August 21st, 2009

Jeff Johnson – October 3, 1943 – August 17, 2009.

Sadly, I heard the news from one of the North Shore lifeguards that Jeff Johnson had lost his battle with cancer. Jeff Johnson was a devoted husband and father.  He and Patti raised three exemplary sons who have also built loving families and who help to make the North Shore and the world a better place to live.  Jeff was one of the pioneering, modern-day waterman on the North Shore.  He was a craftsman and successful contractor. The last time I saw Jeff was this past Spring, he was surfing in front of his house on the North Shore with two of his boys.  I  want  to express my condolences to his family and  thank him for his work in helping to Keep the Country, Country!  May you catch lots of glassy waves in heaven!

Voting Opens for the 25th Anniversary Quiksilver Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational Fueled by Monster

Thursday, August 20th, 2009

I received a link to a press release announcing that the public can vote for the invitees into the North Shore’s if not the world’s most prestigious surfing contest, the Eddie as it’s known to locals. So I voted for my hanai cousin and favorite big wave surfer’s I’ve known and surfed with over the years. I also voted for the 3 surfer girls on the list. Here is a link to vote in the poll: http://polls.quiksilver.com/. I also noted its the 25th anniversary of the event, which is pretty cool and for the first time a second sponsor is on board for this most prestigious surfing contest.  More latter, dinners up.

North Shore Surfer Girls are Ruling Chun’s Reef!

Saturday, August 15th, 2009

Back in the day ( early 80’s for me) one would rarely see women in the water surfing or even learning to surf.  Fast-forward to the Summer of 2009; while teaching surfing lessons at my favorite beginner spot on the North Shore (Chun’s Reef) I’m sharing the lineup with a crew of about five of the cutest little purebred North Shore Surfer Girls I’ve ever seen.  Guaranteed that among this crew of five-to-10 year old girl shredders is a future world surfing champion.  These young North Shore Surfer Girls likely learned to surf with their moms or dads before they could walk. They are an inspiration to my surf lesson students — and cute, cute, cute!

Hawaiian Surfers are the Happiest!

Wednesday, August 12th, 2009

According to the latest Gallup-Healthways Well-Being Index numbers, people living in Hawaii are the happiest people in the nation. While the index measures many things, the one unique thing we have in Hawaii — and especially the North Shore — is GREAT SURF.  Where else in the country can you learn to surf in warm, clean water with sea turtles swimming all around you?  Learning to surf changed will change your life; it will bring you peace  and a sense of satisfaction with the moment.  Yes, surfing truly does add to one’s quality of life – beyond measure.

Summer Surfing on the North Shore is Slipping Away

Wednesday, August 5th, 2009

Surfing lessons this Summer at Chun’s Reef on the North Shore of Oahu have been very good,  thanks to a multitude of southwest and trade-wind swells wrapping around the coast.  Now it’s the middle of August and children and young people are returning to school.  The start of the winter surf season is only a month away!  The pulse of the North Shore is starting to beat harder.  People wanting to learn to surf in Hawaii will have to decide: “Should I try to learn to surf on the North Shore in the winter? Is it safe enough?”

The answer is an emphatic “Yes!”  You will find that learning to surf on the North Shore in both summer and winter is easier than in Waikiki;  the beaches and the waves are much less crowded.  Chun’s Reef surf spot on the North Shore is perfect in the summer. In the winter months we teach you to surf on the North Shore in a cove protected from the larger waves.  Actually the waves at this protected cove are pretty good — much, much better than what you’ll find at Waikiki Beach in Honolulu.  If you need to check surfing off on your Bucket List – now’s the time!