Monthly Archives: April 2020

2904, 2020

Day 39ish of Hawaii COVID-19 Surf Sessions.

By |April 29th, 2020|Uncategorized|0 Comments

In January 2020, I remember hearing about China quarantining millions of people and looking out my window, thinking, “I guess I could isolate here. Little did I know that mere weeks later, I would be under some of the strictest quarantine laws in the nation, except for surfing. Hawaii allowed surfing, fishing, and all water sports categorized as essential activities, a testimony to our elected leaders being in touch with the reality of living on an island. The rest of the life in paradise was locked down hard with Kauai leading the way and having a nightly 9:00 PM curfew and mandatory 14-day isolation for all airport arrivals. So with little to do but surf and shop for food, life became pretty simple, fast! With a series of seemingly endless west swells forecast, a daily surf mission with my best friend was the ticket. Dawn patrol started sometime around 8:30 AM after coffee gets consumed and hot water bottles filled for after surf rinsing. Boards and gear tossed into the back on my Nissan surf school truck, and away we went. It was hard passing perfect Pipe each day.  Lucky for us secret right-hander we had designated as our goto […]

2704, 2020

How to Train for a Surfing Lesson

By |April 27th, 2020|Uncategorized|0 Comments

1. Improve Your Swimming Skills

Confidence in Water: Ensure you’re comfortable swimming in the ocean, as surfing requires being at ease in open water.Endurance Swimming: Increase your stamina with regular swimming sessions, focusing on both distance and speed.

2. Build Your Physical Fitness

Core Strength: Surfing demands a strong core for balance and stability on the board. Incorporate exercises like planks and Russian twists into your routine.Upper Body Strength: Paddling requires arm, shoulder, and back strength. Include push-ups, pull-ups, and paddling exercises in your training.Leg Strength: Squats, lunges, and plyometric exercises will help improve your leg strength for better control and maneuverability on the board.Flexibility: Stretch regularly to improve flexibility, focusing on your legs, back, and shoulders to prevent injuries and enhance your surfing performance.

3. Practice Balance

Balance Exercises: Use a balance board or a Bosu ball to improve your balance and stability, which are crucial for standing up on a surfboard.Skateboarding: Skateboarding can help mimic the balance and movements required in surfing.

4. Learn Surfing Fundamentals

Surf Etiquette: Understand the rules of surfing, including right of way, to ensure safety and respect among surfers.Wave Reading: Start learning how to read waves. This knowledge will help you select the best waves to surf and understand when […]

1804, 2020

I Never Really Wanted to Work Anyway

By |April 18th, 2020|Uncategorized|0 Comments

In the heart of Oahu’s North Shore, where the waves are a language of their own, I found an unexpected turn in my journey. The email from the state, declaring my surf school license suspended indefinitely, struck a chord. Initially mixed, my feelings soon aligned with the rhythm of the ocean—a blessing in disguise. Surfing has never been just a job for me; it’s a passion, a way of life that merges work with the sheer joy of connecting with the ocean’s spirit.

The North Shore, renowned for its majestic waves and vibrant surfing community, has been my playground and office. Here, teaching the art of surfing felt less like work and more like sharing a piece of magic with eager souls. Yet, amidst the lessons, my heart yearned for something simpler—free surfing. The pure essence of surfing for myself, with no obligations, just me and the sea.

“I never really wanted to work anyway,” echoes the sentiment of my newfound freedom. Mornings now begin at my own pace, a luxury once foreign to me. Checking the surf conditions on my phone, I often find myself reaching out to Jenn Marr, my steadfast surfing companion, to see if she’s keen on catching […]

1104, 2020

Life on the North Shore of Oahu During the Corona Virus Pandemic

By |April 11th, 2020|Uncategorized|0 Comments

Amazing life on the North Shore in some ways is better than ever. We are allowed to surf, but there is no traffic. It feels like I’m living back in the 1970s when one car and hour would drive down lonely Kamehameha Hwy. North Shore surfers once again rule the Laniakea parking lot as there are no visitors allowed on the island.


Along with no traffic, there is almost no economy. Most businesses have shuttered their doors, even Matsumomoto’s famous shave ice stand closed. The outlook is dire as current projections have Hawaii not being open to visitors for up to 18 months.

Still, if you’re a hardcore surfer, life could not be better. We may have to go back to living off packaged noodles, but the waves keep crashing, at least for now. Summer is just around the corner, and the thought of enduring months of super small waves and long hot days has me a little depressed.

North Shore Surf Girls Surf Student having fun at Chun’s Reef

One odd part of the quarantine is that you can’t sit on the beach and rest. You always have to be moving, […]