Falling in Love with Surfing Again
I remember my first winter surfing on the North Shore. It was so exciting! Waking up each morning to a horizon stacked with waves for days, it seemed a dream. Sunburnt skin and salty hair was the only price I paid, or so I thought. Not realizing it, I was falling in love, deeply in love with the ocean and her children, the waves. I was faithful to my love for many years. I traveled to Bali each summer for five years in a row to ward off the summer blues of no waves on the North Shore. (Note there are excellent beginner surf lesson waves in the summer on the North Shore) During the winter months, I faithfully rode Pipeline every time she broke. I slept like a baby and lived off of ramen noodles to save money. Life was simple. My only care was to surf.
Sadly, as it can happen in love, I was distracted. Politics called my name, and I threw my heart and soul into the game. Campaigning is all-consuming; shaking hands, kissing babies, and posting yard signs soon caused me to forget to surf. I swapped […]