How to save yourself and the World At the Same Time So that you can Surf More
I sometimes lay awake at night worrying that I’m personally not doing my part to save the World from the effects of human-made pollution. I know that plastics are killing the oceans and dangerous chemicals of all types have made their way into our food chain. For example glyphosate, the active ingredient in the World’s number one herbicide Roundup has been found in mother’s milk. Going 100% organic seems to be the answer. Also, nothing packaged, nothing processed, no sugar, no meat and no dairy. I’ve been eating like this since October 2017. For the record, I cheat sometimes, but 90% of my diet is as such. The results are that I feel terrific, my skin is much better, my food cost is only $12.00 a day and I’ve reduced my household trash by 75%. The hardest part is changing my relationship with food and resetting my pallet. It takes about a month, but once you get there, it’s not so hard, and in fact, I don’t desire processed food at all.
Life on the North Shore of Oahu can be a little bit blissful for some of us. We call it “living the dream”. It’s a term usually saved for those of us who get to live and work at the beach. The North Shore is known for its beautiful sunsets, white sandy beaches and fantastic surf spots, so for a surfer, it’s genuinely a dream life to live. However, there is a dark side to the North Shore that goes beyond too much traffic on the weekends. For starters the cost of owning a home is out of reach for many of the locals who are a part of our close-knit community.
Along with housing, there is a growing divide between the haves and the have nots. It’s a reflection of the overall high cost of living in Hawaii. The Aloha State, for the first time anyone can remember, actually had a net decrease in the number of people living here a number offset by a record 9 million visitors last year.
One of the beautiful things about surfing and living on the North Shore is that I get to watch beautiful sunsets almost every day. The colors that fill the sky as the sun kisses the ocean fills my heart with a warmth that words can never do justice.
Paddle boarder and surfergirl enjoying a North Shore Sunset.
Paying it for forward always makes my day a little better. Just yesterday while I was checking my mail at the Haleiwa Post Office a fellow mail checker commented on how he needed a pair of readers and how where he came from they only cost a $1 and how he was trying to get his life together. Knowing how difficult it is to too function without readers when you need them, I gave him my pair ( I have at least 4 more pairs at home) and asked him to pay it forward. My reward the knowledge that not only did I make his day a little better but the too would do the same for others… Paying it forward works!
For the love of surfing keeps me sane. The love of feeling the ocean caress my body and soul as I paddle out. The kiss of the salt spay on my face brings a smile to me. For the love of surfing I wake before dawn each day to check the surf. For the love of surfing I try to have a daily yoga practice. For the love of surfing I’m a happy soul living a small life. Virtually everything I do is for the love of surfing.
Gender Equality In Surfing, Should Women Compete Against Men and Is It OK For Alana Blanchard to Cash – in On Her Body?
Gender equality in surfing definitely does not exist. Currently as of 2016 there no WSL, World Surfing League contest scheduled on the North Shore for women. The women’s WSL tour consists 17 women competing in 7 surfing contest compared to the men’s tour that contains 34 surfers competing in 10 surfing contest. The prize purse disparity is even worse the winner of a men’s surfing contest receives on average a $100,000 while the women’s champion only receives on average $40,000. The economics trickle down from there, because women receive less face time at surfing contest they are less viable to sponsors and as such the male dominated surf industry justify s paying less money in sponsorship.
Life on the North Shore is amazing, surfing almost everyday, beautiful views, amazing sunsets and friends that last a lifetime. It’s awesome!
Every surfer girl should have a set of New Year’s Resolutions to motivate one’s self to improve in life….Here are mine…..
1. Drink a lot more water
2. Eat a lot more live green food
3. Apply sunscreen more often, especially when in the water
4 Practice yoga a lot more
5, Be as kind as I can to everyone all the time
6. Free surf a lot more
7. Call my dad at least once a week
It’s the beginning of the the 3rd week in November and the surf on North Shore is super glassy and incredibly small. The Van’s Triple Crown of Surfing is on hold, with everyone praying for anything besides dead flat. The surfer boys and girls are all going stir crazy too. New surf contest towers go up and surfing lessons go down, and to top it all off the State of Hawaii is closing off a public park out of spite. Say goodbye to Laniakea, the best North Swell surf spot in Hawaii.
Coffee, tea or me,? Well not really, but I do have a funny story about trying to get a cup of coffee to go in Bali back in the early 90’s on one of the 5 surfing trips I took to Indonesia. I had just arrived in Kuta, a tourist town on the island of Bali that most visitors can’t avoid, but perhaps should. In any case I went into a little shop and asked for a cup of coffee to go. The had no idea what I meant, however after about 5 minutes of explaining that I wanted to take the coffee away with me then gave me a plastic bag filled with very hot coffee. Needless to say I could not drink out of a plastic bag, but it was pretty funny at the time. Surfing that day was a little groggy too.