oA good land lesson when learning to surf will include the following steps. How to be safe in the water How to be safe in the water it’s important to understand that the water is fluid. Well, this may seem an obvious point the fluid nature of the water means that things are changing all the time in the surf. One has to learn to have “situational awareness in the ocean. Always watch the waves and the surf zone. Be ready at any time to jump off your board and duck underwater to avoid a wave or another surfer. Never pedal directly below another surfer and never sit directly in front of another surfer. This is what we call the lineup. Surfers will sit in a row next to each other so that they do not get washed on top of each other when a bigger wave rolls in. There are many other little safety hacks that we will go into greater detail with you on the beach. How to pop up on a surfboard!The first mistake most beginning surfer students make is to try to stand up before they actually catch the wave. At North Shore Surf […]
The best way to check the surf in Hawaii is to wake up very early in the morning and look at it in person. If you can’t look at the ocean physically, the next best option is to go online and visit either Surfline or Surf News Network to look at their surf cams and forcast. I like the Surfline surf cams better, but the surf forecast and report from Surf News Network is more accurate. So your best bet is to check them both.
When you check online, you also get information on tides and winds. For the North Shore, you want to avoid winds over 25 knots and those with a westerly direction. Tides are usually not that important unless the waves are super small, 1 foot or less, or if they are super big, over 15 ft., in both cases, you want to avoid the King tides.
How to stand up on the surfboard can be one of the most intimidating parts of learning how to surf. The secret to learning how to surf is that you don’t have to stand up on your surfboard to catch a wave. Paddle to the into the swell on your stomach 1st, gaining control of the board with your hands on either side and continuing to control the board with your hands as you step light as a cat into position, pivoting sideways looking and keeping the hands low.
Admittedly the video above is not standing up on a surfboard, but we figure if this guy can stand up on a slackline, then you can’t be that hard to stand up on a surfboard after all.
How to save yourself and the World At the Same Time So that you can Surf More
I sometimes lay awake at night worrying that I’m personally not doing my part to save the World from the effects of human-made pollution. I know that plastics are killing the oceans and dangerous chemicals of all types have made their way into our food chain. For example glyphosate, the active ingredient in the World’s number one herbicide Roundup has been found in mother’s milk. Going 100% organic seems to be the answer. Also, nothing packaged, nothing processed, no sugar, no meat and no dairy. I’ve been eating like this since October 2017. For the record, I cheat sometimes, but 90% of my diet is as such. The results are that I feel terrific, my skin is much better, my food cost is only $12.00 a day and I’ve reduced my household trash by 75%. The hardest part is changing my relationship with food and resetting my pallet. It takes about a month, but once you get there, it’s not so hard, and in fact, I don’t desire processed food at all.
How to Pack for a Day Surfing on the North Shore of Oahu. So your planning on a day of surfing on the North Shore and want to be prepared. To help with this, I’ve created a list below. Remember that if you don’t have everything on the list Haleiwa Town has at least a half dozen surf shops and a Long’s Drug Store with just about everything you will need for a day of surfing.
Refillable water bottle, I like hydroflasks because they keep your water super cold.
Reef safe sunscreen
First aid kit in case you cut your feet on the reef
Bathing suite / surf trunks
Rash guard / wetsuit
Two leashes in case one breaks
Cover up for after surfing
Cash to buy lunch
How to Buy the Right Size Surfboard
Beginning surfers frequently buy too small of a surfboard when they buy their first board. We suggest that you rent surfboards until you get good enough to ride one that is 9 feet or less in length. Most surfboard rentals are around $20 a day whereas a new surfboard can cost between $500-$1,000. So for $500 you could get 25 days of surfboard rentals. In 25 days, you should be able to move down in size at least a 10 ft surfboard and so on.
If you want to give your children surfing lessons it’s critical that you know how to surf very well yourself. You don’t want your child to get hurt whiling learning to surf. If you don’t surf and are not a skilled waterman or women leave teaching the sport of surfing to your child to a professional. If you are an expert on a surfboard then the best way to start is by riding tandem with offspring. Tandem surfing with a child is super safe and a great way to be able to coach your child in real-time. Tandem surfing is also a great way to bond with your child.
How to Cross Step on a Longboard is one of the first tricks you can learn while surfing on a long board surfboard. The secret is to push back on the board with your front foot as you quickly stepforward with back foot and then bring your other foot back in front so as to uncross your legs very quickly. To begin with step the back foot forward and then quickly pull in back. Sort of like a half step.
How to Stand Up Paddle Board
1. Start on calm flat water – learning to surf waves with SUP will come after you’ve mastered the flats.
2. Begin on your knees and practice turning and controlling the board with your paddle.
3. To stand up get on your hands and knees holding the paddle on the board with your hands with your knees just behind the middle point of the board. Keeping your hands and the paddle on the board slowly place your feet where your knees are then looking forward slowly lift the paddle off the board with your knees bent at a 45 degree angle.
4. Paddle the board forward with conviction.
Catching a wave is one of the most thrilling things you can do on the water. Perfecting the art of catching a wave by yourself takes time. Getting a surf lesson from a good instructor can help shorten the learning curve. Read the How to Catch a Wave article that I was interviewed for in the New York Times Magazine below.