I Never Really Wanted to Work Anyway
In the heart of Oahu’s North Shore, where the waves are a language of their own, I found an unexpected turn in my journey. The email from the state, declaring my surf school license suspended indefinitely, struck a chord. Initially mixed, my feelings soon aligned with the rhythm of the ocean—a blessing in disguise. Surfing has never been just a job for me; it’s a passion, a way of life that merges work with the sheer joy of connecting with the ocean’s spirit.
The North Shore, renowned for its majestic waves and vibrant surfing community, has been my playground and office. Here, teaching the art of surfing felt less like work and more like sharing a piece of magic with eager souls. Yet, amidst the lessons, my heart yearned for something simpler—free surfing. The pure essence of surfing for myself, with no obligations, just me and the sea.
“I never really wanted to work anyway,” echoes the sentiment of my newfound freedom. Mornings now begin at my own pace, a luxury once foreign to me. Checking the surf conditions on my phone, I often find myself reaching out to Jenn Marr, my steadfast surfing companion, to see if she’s keen on catching […]