In the heart of Oahu’s North Shore, where the waves are a language of their own, I found an unexpected turn in my journey. The email from the state, declaring my surf school license suspended indefinitely, struck a chord. Initially mixed, my feelings soon aligned with the rhythm of the ocean—a blessing in disguise. Surfing has never been just a job for me; it’s a passion, a way of life that merges work with the sheer joy of connecting with the ocean’s spirit.
The North Shore, renowned for its majestic waves and vibrant surfing community, has been my playground and office. Here, teaching the art of surfing felt less like work and more like sharing a piece of magic with eager souls. Yet, amidst the lessons, my heart yearned for something simpler—free surfing. The pure essence of surfing for myself, with no obligations, just me and the sea.
“I never really wanted to work anyway,” echoes the sentiment of my newfound freedom. Mornings now begin at my own pace, a luxury once foreign to me. Checking the surf conditions on my phone, I often find myself reaching out to Jenn Marr, my steadfast surfing companion, to see if she’s keen on catching the morning waves. Regardless of her answer, my biggest dilemma often revolves around choosing the perfect bikini to complement my sun protection gear.
On lucky days, my partner brews a fresh cup of coffee, adding a touch of warmth to the start of my day. Other times, it’s a solo trip to the Coffee Gallery for that essential caffeine fix. Armed with my Hydro Flask filled with hot water for a post-surf rinse, I pick up Jenn, and we head to our cherished, secret spot on the North Shore. Thanks to the quiet brought on by COVID-19, the drive is swift, allowing us to traverse the North Shore in just 15 minutes—a stark contrast to pre-pandemic times.
This unexpected pause in my career has presented a stark reality check on the financial front, yet it has gifted me a taste of freedom reminiscent of an endless holiday. My days are no longer dictated by phone calls, emails, or schedules. Now, it’s all about the surf. The North Shore has always been a haven for surfers, and living here, embracing the waves day in and day out, I’ve come to realize the true essence of happiness. It’s not about the hustle; it’s about finding joy in the simplicity of life—surf, surf, and more surf.
As the North Shore whispers its timeless call, I’m reminded that sometimes, the best plans are the ones we never make. Here, on the famed shores of Oahu, I’ve found my place in the sun, riding the waves of an unplanned life, and I wouldn’t have it any other way.
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