Surf Happenings

In honor of international surfing day we thought we’d share some of the history of surfing in Hawaii…
Mākaha Surfing

Although no one knows for sure exactly where and when surfing began, there is no doubt that over the centuries the ancient sport of “heʻe nalu” (wave sliding) was perfected, if not invented, by the kings and queens of Hawaiʻi, long before the 15th century AD.

“Surf-riding was one of the most exciting and noble sports known to the Hawaiians, practiced equally by king, chief and commoner. It is still to some extent engaged in, though not as formerly, when it was not uncommon for a whole community, including both sexes, and all ages, to sport and frolic in the ocean the livelong day.” (Malo)

One of the early (if not first) written descriptions of surfing in Hawaiʻi (Kealakekua Bay:)
“The surf, which breaks on the coast round the bay, extends to the distance of about one hundred and fifty yards from the shore …. Whenever, from stormy weather, or any extraordinary swell at sea, the impetuosity of the surf is increased to its utmost height, they choose that time for this amusement … twenty or thirty of the natives, taking each a long narrow […]

Keala Kennelly was named the 2013 Girls Billabong Performance Champion last night in California.  She won $5,000 which is pretty good unless you figure that the mens champion won $50,000.  Must be that 10 times more men wear Billabong clothing, one hopes in any case.  Bellow is a summary of the rules for the contest….

The Billabong XXL Ride of the Year Award will be won by the individual surfer who — based on review of available video images by a panel of experts — demonstrates the most advanced and committed level of big wave surfing performance during a single successful ride during the annual event period. Judging criteria is purely SUBJECTIVE and will be calculated from the votes of a large panel of surfers, photographers and surf magazine editors and writers. The first prize will be awarded in the amount of $50,000. Second prize will be awarded in the amount of $5,000. The XXL Ride of the Year finalists finishing third through fifth will receive $1,500 each. The videographer who captures the definitive video clip of the winning ride will be awarded $5,000.