How To Do Things Related to Surfing

Catching a wave is one of the most thrilling things you can do on the water.  Perfecting the art of catching a wave by yourself takes time.  Getting a surf lesson from a good instructor can help shorten the learning curve.  Read the How to Catch a Wave article that I was interviewed for in the New York Times Magazine below.

Paddling a surf board correctly is one of the most fundamental aspects of learning to surf.  Your surf instructor can push you into waves for days and even tow you back out,  giving you an excellent surfing experience, leaning to paddle the board yourself is key to becoming a real surfer.  There are two paddling strokes, the butterfly and the crawl, both are swimming terms used to help a surfing student visualize how to paddle a surf board.  The trick is to get the surf board gliding on the water by not creating drag at the end of the stroke or paddle.  This is achieved by taking the arm fully out of the water as you move it as far towards the front of the surf board for your next stroke.

After a students first surfing lesson, I’m frequently asked where can I buy a surfboard. My advice DO NOT buy a surfboard until you’ve rented one of similar size, shape and thickness and ridden it successfully. I can’t tell you how many beginner surfer students I’ve meet who sent to a surf shop and got sold a high proformance surfboard ment for an advanced surfer.  The problem is that once you ride a board you can’t return it.  If you have to buy a surfboard right away go to Costco and buy the Storm.

There’s a well know saying in the surfing world,  “Only a Surfer Know’s the Feeling”.   I do know how it feels to get back into the surf after a hiatus of a week or two.  It’s heavenly…..the ocean is so pure in her heart and actions. She will do what she will do and some of us mere humans get to know her and even be friends with her…..the ocean is always a place I can go to seek refuge from the manusha of life on the land.  Paying bills, organizing, scheduling, even cleaning all are not possible in the ocean, especially while surfing.  It’s a kind of meditative place where one can must and only focus on the moment.  Surfing also brings a  feeling of peace, health,  happiness and especially freedom.